Adjusting Doors on a Studebaker
by Pete Yuen
Door misalignment on a solid car is usually
cause by worn hinges. To check yours, open the door to
about 30 degrees august angle. Lift the rear of the door
upward.
A 1/16” movement at the hinges will translate to
almost a half inch at the rear of the door. If you
feel “play” in the hinges, that is the problem and
you must replace them or have them rebuilt
before the door adjustment will mean anything.
Remove the door trim interior panel. Go after the
three bolts on the top-hinge-to-door mounting
point.
They are #3 Phillips head bolts. After so many
years, they may be a bit stubborn to loosen. You are
quite likely to break off the bolts. It’s a good idea to
spray them with WD40 and let them sit a day or so and
re- peat a couple more times.
Then you take your
time and use an impact driver and a big hammer. You will
either knock the bolts loose enough to remove
them or you will break them, in which case,
you’ll have to use an easy-out or drill them out
and re-tap the hinges.
Once they are loose, raise the rear of the door
until at least 1/16”. Forward movement is noted
the door and the hinge. Re-tighten the bolts. Do Not slam
the door to check the “new” fit. Rather, slowly close
the door and note the fit around the adjacent panels
and the door strike plate. Adjust or readjust as
necessary.
Adjusting the door post striker plate may now be
required. Worn hinges usually mean worn striker
plates.
Fortunately, reproduction striker plates are
available from several SDC parts vendors. Use a 30
weight oil on the hinges and the mechanisms
from time to time to preserve them and you are
all set.
“All the above” assumes your car’s floor and
structural integrity are sound enough so the
hinge post is solidly attached to the driver’s side
floor. Obviously, if the hinge post has rusted
away from the floor, it will not be possible to
adjust anything to fit and operate properly until structural repairs are
made.
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