Adjusting V8 valves

 This is a great tutorial on adjusting the valves on a Studebaker V8. Doing it this way makes the job easier and faster. It should work on any V8 with standard firing order, but always check first. 

The sounds that we all hear coming from our Studebaker engine bay especially on overhead valve engines is mainly valve lash, tappet noise, valve clearance. All are names that mean the same thing. They produce noise. The noise is there for a reason. As an engine starts to get up to operating temperature the metal (valve system) expands and if there was no clearance the valves would remain open and the engine would just quit running. 

Insufficient valve clearance or marginal clearance will usually allow an engine to run at higher speeds but when coming to a stop after a long run at highway speeds it will stumble and die out, usually in a spot where it could be dangerous. The Studebaker engineers determined that on a standard V8 engine the clearance should be .025 when hot. If you set them cold as I normally do then they should be set at .027 This will cause valve clatter but as the old Volkswagen mechanic told me “If you can hear them, they are working.” 

Some engines have modified camshafts like my Avanti and the camshaft maker specified a clearance of .012 intake and .014 exhaust. These settings for some reason did not prove satisfactory so after some trial and error I settled on a setting of .018 and .020 Cold. A significant change but the noise from them tells me that all is well. To me the noise made by valve train on an engine with mechanical lifters is music to my ears. 

My point here is to make sure that everybody understands that with mechanical lifters an engine must emit some clatter from its valve train, or it will not function properly.
Setting valves is a do-it-yourself job. All you need are a set of feeler gauges and a 1⁄2” wrench. Remove the valve covers and put the number one cylinder (The one on the driver side at the front) on top dead centre. The pointer should show on the vibration damper mark. This is not easy, but it must be done accurately. In this position on a Studebaker V8 you can set:
Exhaust 1-3-4-8
Intake 1-2-5-7
Then you must rotate the engine until number six cylinder is on its top dead centre and you can set:
Exhaust 2-5-6-7
Intake 3-4-6-8
All these settings are done cold and be sure to double check your work by rotating the engine again to each top dead center and rechecking the valve clearance. Good luck and let’s hear those Studebaker Valves in action.

Several years ago, I wrote a column about original clutch pressure plate assemblies as used on ‘55 to ‘64 V-8 Studebakers. The point of that column was to list the various diameters used - 10”; 10-1/8”; 10-1/4”; and 10-1/2” and the rating in pounds for the different model applications. 1545 lbs. to 2050 lbs. with several in the 1700 - 1800 lbs. range. 

1 wanted to point out that most aftermarket clutches were more like 2200 lbs. and thus could lead to clutch linkage failure, not to mention a tired left foot. 

Some Studebaker parts dealers were selling a commonly available American Motors/Jeep 10-1/2” clutch pressure plate rated at 2220 lbs. 

I chose to rarely sell this part (only for heavy duty use) my preference was something close to the original Studebaker listings. 

So, I sold 10” and 10-1/4” pressure plates whenever I could, since these would be in the 1600 - 1800 lbs. range. 

Recently my California wholesaler Studebaker parts supplier chose to discontinue selling remanufactured 10” pressure plates, mainly due to lack of people willing to do the rebuilding process. 

Fortunately he now has a source for new 10-1/2” pressure plates, rated at 1450 lbs. - noted as “standard duty”. The “heavy duty” version is 2000 lbs. 

’55 - ‘64 Studebaker V-8 flywheels have a bolt pattern that will accept 10” thru 10-1/2” pressure plates, so a 10-1/2” pressure plate will readily replace a 10” plate. You should either reface your flywheel (good idea anyway) or use a 10” disc.