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Willamette Studebakers
  • Home
  • About the Club
  • Club Events
  • Become a Member
  • Car Show 2025
  • Car Show 2024
  • Classifieds
  • How to Articles
    • Tie Rod Ends
    • Electrical Gremlins
    • Brake Drum Removal
    • Adjusting V8 Valves
    • Studebaker Clutch
    • Exterior Door Handles
    • Electric Fuel Pumps
  • Contact

Electric Fuel Pumps

 Odds ‘N’ Ends by Pete Yuen


  Electric fuel pumps installed in cars that never had them when they came from the factory should have a switch to shut off the fuel pump when the engine stops running. The switches may not be mandatory in some jurisdictions but it should be. 

Some parts jobbers may not stock such an

item but worth asking anyway. They may bring one in from their supplier for you.” The purpose of this switch is to shut the power off to the pump in the event of an accident and the engine stops running so that the pump will not keep running. The switch is not a superfluous piece of equipment, it is a safety feature and a 1/8th inch male pipe

thread. The actual diameter of the tapered thread is slightly more than 3/8th of an inch. A switch that will close with minimum of “5PSI should work fine.”

“You may need to use some fittings to connect the pressure switch to the Stude engine. On the right side of the Studebaker engine there is an oil gallery or channel that runs from the rear of the engine to the oil pressure relief valve towards the front of the engine. There are several oil plugs on the

gallery. Remove the most convenient one to attach the pressure switch. The switch operates on oil pressure. 

With the engine running, there is enough oil pressure to maintain a closed circuit. To wire

this switch into the system, refer to the literature that will come with the fuel pump. If there are wire gauge specs in the literature, follow as directed. If there are no wire gauge specs, use 16-gauge or heavier. 18-gauge wire is likely too light. Note that in the wire gauge numbering system, the smaller the number, the larger the wire conductor girth. Example: A 6-gauge wire is much heavier than a 12- gauge wire.”

Do not use solid wire as found in houses for automotive wiring. They are not intended for

use in cars. 


  Wiring check on used cars – When purchasing a used vehicle, one of things to look at is the wiring to help determine if the car had been involved in a major fender bender. Caution flags

should go up when you see the use of new wiring and splicing of wires or if the original wires had been tampered with in the engine compartment or the trunk area.

Examine the wiring closely, then check the warning lights on the instrument board to see if they are operational with the ignition switch turned on before the engine is started. You should see, (in cars so equipped)


 1 - Engine or engine check warning light, 

2 - Oil pressure light, 

3 - Alternator or battery warning light, 

4 - Temperature warning light. CHECK 

OPERATION OF LIGHTS AND

GAUGES WHEN THE ENGINE HAS BEEN STARTED.

Wiring check on cars that have been in a flood – Inspect under the dashboard and hood for brittle, discoloured wires or crumbling insulation. Look for corrosion, rust or mud onmetal connectors, fuse boxes and inside of electrical components. There may be malfunction in lights, radio and erratic window operations due to the water exposure.

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